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Writer's pictureSuzhou Zanying

3 Fundamental Weaves Of Woven Fabric

Updated: May 31, 2023

Fabric is a flexible material. Composed of natural or man-made fiber yarns. There are many ways to weave fabrics. Although it can be formed by knotting or interlacing yarns, such as crochet, lace making or fringed lace weaving. But the main techniques are weaving and knitting.

woven fabric

Weaving is the process of interweaving warp yarns (vertically) with weft yarns (horizontally) vertically on a loom. There are 3 basic constructions of woven fabrics: plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. Most of the fabrics use these structures. On the basis of these three structures, several other textile technologies have been developed to produce fabrics with more complex structures. These 3 structures are also known as 3 fundamental weaves.


1. Plain weave


Plain weave is the most basic and possibly the oldest fabric structure. The warp and weft yarns are interwoven perpendicular to each other. Wherein each weft yarn all passes over a warp yarn from above and then passes through a warp yarn from below. Plain weave is also sometimes referred to as "Taffeta weave".

plain fabric

Plain weave can be rough or smooth in texture. Depends on the fineness and roughness of the yarn.


The square weave is a variation of the plain weave. This variation occurs when two or more strands of yarn are joined together and woven in the direction of warp and weft. Finally, a more obvious square is presented.


Plain weave fabrics include: chiffon, organza, taffeta and canvas.


2. Twill weave


Twill has the visual effect of a slash or ribbing. This is due to the fact that the weft yarn passes through two or more warp yarns and is below it. This oblique line may also be called a rib. This convex line visual effect is most obvious on heavy cotton fabrics and not so obvious on light shirting cotton fabrics.

twill fabric

Different from plain fabric. Twill fabrics have different effects on the front and back. The front slash lines are more pronounced. When the raw material and yarn are the same. Twill weave is more durable than plain weave. Therefore, it is more suitable for workwear. Denim is perhaps the most iconic of all workwear fabrics. The real denim is a twill weave fabric.


Although the term "twill" is often used to describe cotton fabrics. Any type of fiber can be woven in this way.


Twill weave is more flexible and drapable than plain weave. And the wrinkle recovery is stronger. Finer yarns can be woven more tightly when weaving in twill weave. Therefore, the fabric made of it has a higher count, is more durable and is also waterproof. Like the traditional Burberry trench coat, it was originally designed to be worn by officers in the trenches of World War I.


Twill weaves include: serge, flannel, denim, gabardine, cavalry twill, chinos and shumei silk. Traditionally iconic herringbone and checkerboard fabrics, as well as Scottish tartan, are woven from the twill weave.


3. Satin and sateen weaves


The most obvious feature of satin is its smooth and shiny surface. And sateen is slightly darker and has no flash. Both types of fabrics have a smooth surface due to the similar weave. The front of satin is dominated by warp yarns, while the front of sateen is dominated by weft yarns. Its dominant yarns aligned in one direction are the main reason for this smooth fabric. Although the decisive factor affecting the luster of the fabric is the type of fiber selected. The fabric structure also affects the sheen of the fabric.

satin fabric

Traditionally silk was used to make satin and cotton yarn to make sateen. High-quality satin is still made of silk. And less expensive alternatives use man-made fibers. Cotton or cotton blended yarn is the main raw material of sateen.


Satin weaves include: silk satin,polyester satin,spandex satin and tribute satin.

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